How often do you think about the ingredients of the food you eat each day – the number of calories, the amount of saturated fat, sugar content? If you’re health conscious, you might consider these things every time you take a bite.
But how many times a day do you ponder the ingredients of your personal care products? Your shampoo, conditioner, body wash, moisturizer, toothpaste, and – say – your entire make-up bag?
Turns out maybe you should put some thought into what you’re slathering onto your skin and painting on your face. As you primp and preen each morning, you may be unknowingly slathering on ingredients that have been linked to cancer, endocrine dysfunction, and metal toxicity. Unfortunately, our skin is more like a sponge than a barrier, and we absorb many of the chemicals we expose ourselves to.
In the United States, the cosmetics industry is largely unregulated. Because of loopholes in federal law, most make-up, personal care products, and perfume have limited government oversight. Neither the FDA, nor any other government organization, is required to test cosmetics for safety before they hit the market. This task is left up to manufacturers.
But can we trust them? The FDA prohibits the marketing of adulterated or misbranded products. When a manufacturer uses the disclaimer – “Warning – The safety of this product has not been determined” – it is in compliance with the law.
And so, without further ado, here’s my list of the top 5 things to avoid in your cosmetic bag:
Mercury. You would think that a heavy metal like mercury, which is known to impair neurological development, would be eliminated from cosmetics. After all, mercury thermometers are obsolete and warnings about mercury in shellfish abound. Not so. According to the Environmental Working Group, thimerosal, a preservative that contains 49 percent mercury, is still used in some mascaras. Check ingredients to ensure that thimerosal isn’t included.
Lead. When the Campaign for Safe Cosmetics tested 33 top brands of lipstick for lead, one third of them came back positive, according to a New York Times report. L’Oreal Colour Riche lipstick in True Red had a lead content of 0.65 ppm and Cover Girl’s Incredifull Lipcolor in Maximum Red had a concentration of 0.56 ppm. The federal limit for lead in candy—one measure of an “acceptable” amount if lead (if there is one) —is 0.01 ppm. Considering that the average woman will ingest 4 pounds of lipstick in her lifetime and that lead is a cumulative toxin, this could prove harmful.
Exposure to lead is known to cause harm to the nervous system, hence the government’s ban on lead paint enacted in the 1970s. Children under the age of 6 are particularly sensitive to lead’s effects, which can hinder physical and mental development. According to the Mayo Clinic, the dangers of lead poisoning include, memory loss, muscular weakness, and miscarriage or premature birth in pregnant women.
This doesn’t mean you have to get rid of your trademark red pout. The Campaign for Safe Cosmetics tested shades from Avon, The Body Shop, Clinique and Dior, among others, and found that they contained no lead. Read their list of lead-free lipsticks here.
In case you gents think, this is a ladies problem, lead acetate can be found in some men’s hair dyes and hair care products. Read the list here to ensure these products don’t end up in your shopping basket, as lead poisoning can cause a lower sperm count. Opt for a henna or plant-based hair dye instead. But just so you know, the silver fox look is in right now (Anderson Cooper? George Clooney?).
Parabens. According to the FDA, parabens are the most widely-used preservatives in cosmetics. They stop the growth of bacteria and other microorganisms. Methylparaben, propylparaben, and butylparaben are the most common parabens you’ll find in cosmetics, sunscreens, lotions, shaving cream, and many other personal care products.
So, parabens act as antimicrobials; they stop the growth of potentially harmful bacteria, which should be good, right? Not so. Parabens are known endocrine disruptors and have been linked to cancer. While the FDA says consumers shouldn’t be concerned with parabens present in their personal care products, some studies have shown that women with breast cancer have elevated levels of the preservative in their tumors. While causality has not been established, some expect it to be verified in further research. Erring on the side of caution may be best.
In the meantime, look for products without parabens. Dr. Hauska’s, Tom’s of Maine, and some Jergens products are paraben-free. Remember to read the labels to be sure. SustainLane community member Susan W. wrote a thorough explanation of the paraben problem here, and includes additional product recommendations.
Phthalates. Phtalates are endocrine disruptors and have been linked to kidney, liver, lung, and reproductive system damage in animals. Phthalates are used is fragrances to give them more staying power. They are currently banned from cosmetics in the EU, but not in the U.S.; however, the U.S recently banned phthalates from children’s toys and baby products. Phthalates aren’t likely to be labeled on products, but one place you can often find them “hiding” is in the word “fragrance.” “Fragrance” is a catch-all term that manufacturers use; in doing so, they do not have to list individual ingredients therein. For this reason, choose fragrance-free products whenever you can.
Petroleum Based Ingredients. Many petroleum-based ingredients in cosmetics contain potentially harmful carcinogenic impurities such as formaldehyde, 1,4-dioxane, and PAHs (polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons). These impurities, which arise as a result of processing, are readily absorbed by the body and are potentially harmful to the health.
The EPA classifies 1,4-dioxane as a probable human carcinogen, and the National Toxicology Program considers it a known animal carcinogen. The EWG says it may be present in 57 percent of all baby soaps and 34 percent of all body lotions. It’s also found in hair relaxers, sunless tanning products, and anti-aging creams. And get this: 1,4-dioxane has even been detected in many natural and organic product lines.
The Organic Consumers Association—a non-profit public interest group— reports that it found 1,4-dioxane in products from Kiss my Face and Nature’s Gate Organics. Of the USDA Certified Organic products tested, such as Dr. Bronner’s and Aubrey Organics, no 1,4-dioxane was detected. Click here for the test results from the Organic Consumers Organization.
You won’t find 1,4-dioxane listed as an ingredient because it occurs as a byproduct of processing petroleum called “ethoxylation.” The EWG urges consumers to avoid purchasing products containing sodium laureth sulfate and any ingredients that include the clauses "PEG," "xynol," "ceteareth," and "oleth.” Click here for more information about 1,4-Dioxane from the EWG.
Some organizations, like the Campaign for Safe Cosmetics and the Environmental Working Group’s Skin Deep Cosmetic Safety Database, are rallying to bring some accountability to the cosmetics industry and provide consumers with information about what’s really inside their make-up bags and bathroom cabinets and how these ingredients may affect their bodies. If you are unsure of the safety of any cosmetics or personal care products you use, look them up on the EWG’s or Campaign for Safe Cosmetics’ website to find out what’s inside.
